Fish dishes should be exciting!

Ireland is famous for its fish and seafood but it can be difficult to find great and imaginative fish dishes in restaurants.

Ireland exports a high amount of fish mainly to Europe with France, Italy, UK and Germany being strong buyers. That might be the reason that we can find it rather challenging to find Dublin Bay prawns at fishmongers. This might also be the reason that many shops and supermarkets have to import seafood from Asia.

We all could now start a discussion that Ireland should never have given up their fishing rights (and I agree) but it is what it is.

Due to healthier eating habits, experts are forecasting a rise in fish consumption in Ireland and the industry is preparing. BIM (Bord Iascaigh Mhara – the Irish seafood development agency) is working now with Chef Network and young chefs to complete the Taste the Atlantic Ambassador program.

This initiative is designed to promote and drive the awareness of Irish seafood – the application process included a written submission and interview with BIM and chefs. The programme includes masterclasses with JP McMahon from Galway (a champion of Irish seafood for many years) and other experts in the field.

The five winners are Sarah Jane Browne, originally from Kerry, and now Chef/Manager of Time & Tide in Annagry, Co. Donegal. Jake Kennedy is from Co. Wicklow and is Chef de Partie (Fish Section), Glovers Alley, Dublin. Kevin King is Senior Sous Chef, Connemara Sands Beach Hotel and Spa, Ballyconneely, Co. Galway and is from Clifden. Hailing from Brazil, Lucas Serpa Maciel Lisboa is Junior Chef de Partie, Bunnyconnellan Coastal Restaurant in Myrtleville and Andrew Zeppa is Commis Chef at The Yacht Pub & Upper Deck Restaurant, Clontarf, Co. Dublin. Let’s keep our fingers crossed for Cork’s Lucas from Myrtleville.

I prefer fish to meat but I am always disappointed when the only offerings on a menu are fish and chips – don’t get me wrong, I love this traditional dish and the best version I have ever eaten was from a little chipper in Thorney, UK many years ago. But in a restaurant, I would love to see more innovative dishes.

Blair’s Inn in Cloghroe, Blarney used to have lemon sole with lemon butter sauce which was delicious. Pakkies in Kenmare (not there anymore as far as I know) had dover sole with shrimps that was just divine.

I still remember a dish I had in Berlin with my grandmother – it was in a restaurant called Bonapart in Spandau, where she lived.

It was pike (don’t judge me now, it was the tenderest piece of fish I have ever eaten) with a lemon emulsion (it was in the ‘80s and emulsions were a new thing).

But can you imagine how utterly awesome that piece of fish was for me to remember it 35 years later?

I don’t like raw fish, so you will never see me eating sushi (tried it, just not my thing) but I had salmon tartare in Osteria Lucio by Ross Lewis in Dublin about 2 years ago and it was exquisite.

Here’s hoping that the Taste the Atlantic Ambassador program entices chefs to get more courageous when it comes to fish.

Saying that, I still have to make my way to Goldie in Oliver Plunkett Street – have heard amazing things.